Ever been intrigued by those shipping forecasts mentioning Malin Head
and wondered what is was like, or even where it was? Malcolm Rogers found
out by travelling to Ireland's most northerly point.
Malin Head, variously
described as Celticus Promotorium, Ireland's most northerly point, or more
simply "you know, that place off the shipping forecast" is alone worth the
journey to north Donegal.
It might not be as spectacular as other Donegal headlands (cliffs of
only 200 feet as opposed to Slieve League's 2,000 feet which drop vertically
into the ocean) but the very fact that there's nothing between you and the
Arctic except the angry Atlantic creates its own dramatic appeal.
There is plenty to do on the Inishowen peninsula. Near the village of
Malin are the extensive sand dunes of Lagg - great huge sandhills covered
in marram grass.
Meanwhile, just west of the headland is the narrow rock-cleft of Hell's
Hole where, on stormy days, the waves break through with incredible ferocity.
But it's not just sea and sand. There has been human activity on the
Inishowen peninsula these last 7,000 years. At Cloghanmore, to the south
of Malin More off the road to Malin Beg are some pre-Christian remains -
huge strange dolmens constructed for a purpose we can only guess at. The
whole of the peninsula - and beyond - is covered with them.
Holy Wells also abound in this ancient part of Ireland, for the influence
of St. Colmcille, St. Patrick and St. Brendan runs very deep. The latter
of this saintly trio would keep his boat moored at Leany at a spot in the
Culduff river to the west of Malin Head.
This was Brendan's embarkation point for his journeys to Scotland and
he blessed the waters round the little harbour of Bunagee. Local tradition
has it that a fishing boat from that port has never yet been lost. Nearby
is the Navigator's Well if you wish to give thanks.
On Slieve Sneachta you can find Tobar na Súl, or Well of the Eyes. It
is locally believed that the waters here possess curative properties when
applied to the eyes. I will resist the temptation to say that this is definitely
a Site for Sore Eyes. Sufficient to say that St. Patrick blessed this holy
place during his 40 days in the mountain district.
From Malin it's a beautiful drive out to Inishowen Head. Merely find
your way back to the north-east coast of the peninsula, through Ballymagaraghy,
then head for Balbane Head and on to Inishowen Head. Whales have been spotted
here in recent times and there are plenty of seals. Sing to them and they
might follow you along the coast.
It's an easy road from Inishowen Head down to Moville along the banks
of Lough Foyle. This bustling, coastal resort sort-of-place is reminiscent
of seaside holidays of the 1950s. Ice cream sliders, yellow man, spades
and pails - they're all still there.
Donegal has often been regarded as a place apart, a place of contrasts.
It's in the Republic, but further North than most of Northern Ireland; part
of it is in the Gaeltacht, but a lot of the culture has distinct Scottish
influences.
It is fervently Catholic with all its holy wells and loughs - yet it
has one of the biggest Protestant populations in the Republic as well as
one of the largest collections of pagan standing stones.
It seems an isolated place but was probably among one of the first populated
parts of Ireland. These contrasts give the county a strong character, one
that can't help but deeply affect the visitor.
If you're looking for a slice of old Ireland, some of it can still be
found here in the Dún na nGall. Paraphrasing an old saying: When it's 3am
in Dublin's Temple Bar, it's still 1955 in Donegal.
